The mechanism of melanogenesis
The cells responsible for melanin production, melanocytes, are located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Melanogenesis is mainly activated by the sun's UV rays, which stimulate these melanocytes to produce melanin, thus forming a protective barrier against external aggressions. Melanin comes in two types: eumelanin, which is dark brown to black in color, and pheomelanin, which is red to yellow in color.
The process takes place in three phases:
- Melanocyte activation: Exposure to sunlight activates the enzyme tyrosinase, which triggers the synthesis of melanin from the amino acid tyrosine.
- Melanin synthesis: Melanin is produced as eumelanin or pheomelanin, influencing the skin's natural color and its ability to protect itself from UV rays.
- Transport and distribution: Melanin is then transferred to keratinocytes, where it forms a shield around the cell nucleus to reduce UV damage.
Hyperpigmentation: a disorder of melanogenesis
When there is an overproduction or poor distribution of melanin, pigment spots can appear. This hyperpigmentation phenomenon often results from prolonged exposure to UV rays, hormonal changes, or skin aging. The most common types of pigment spots include:
- Sunspots: caused by excessive exposure to UV rays, they appear on the most exposed areas (face, hands, neckline).
- Melasma: Often triggered by hormonal changes, this type of hyperpigmentation is common during pregnancy or the use of hormonal contraceptives.
- Age spots: As we age, melanin production becomes irregular, leading to the appearance of dark spots.
Skin aging and pigment spots
Skin aging accentuates irregularities in melanin production. In fact, the cells responsible for skin renewal slow down their activity, and the melanocytes, although fewer in number, become more active and produce melanin irregularly. This phenomenon, coupled with years of sun exposure, leads to visible spots, often more pronounced with age.
In addition to sun damage, the skin suffers oxidative stress caused by free radicals, which accelerates aging and intensifies the appearance of pigment spots. To counteract these effects, it is essential to adopt specific care that targets melanin production and strengthens skin protection.
Regulate melanogenesis to even out skin tone
Regulation of melanogenesis is crucial to prevent the appearance of pigment spots. One of the first steps is to reduce UV exposure through appropriate sun protection. Daily application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen prevents excessive stimulation of melanocytes, thus limiting the risk of new spots.
Then, the use of treatments enriched with depigmenting active ingredients allows you to directly target existing spots and prevent the formation of new ones. These active ingredients act by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, thus regulating the production of melanin and evening out its distribution in the epidermis.
The multi-target approach to treating pigment spots
To correct pigment spots, care must combine several actions:
- Tyrosinase inhibition: reduce melanin production by limiting the activity of this enzyme.
- Antioxidants: protect the skin against free radicals which accelerate skin aging and the appearance of spots.
- Cellular renewal: promotes the gentle exfoliation of pigmented cells for a brighter complexion.
A well-thought-out skincare routine , incorporating these actions, helps prevent and treat pigment spots, while restoring the skin's natural radiance.
A tailored routine to prevent hyperpigmentation
In addition to sun protection, incorporating specific serums and creams into your daily routine is essential to even out your skin tone and prevent new spots from appearing. It is recommended to adopt treatments that respect the skin's sensitivity while providing targeted benefits to reduce hyperpigmentation.
A rigorous routine combined with suitable formulas helps restore the balance of melanogenesis and provide an effective solution to skin prone to pigment spots.
